Last day

Colorado and Utah were spectacular. From snow dusted, frozen rivers and precarious peaks, to vast, snow covered landscapes, I can't imagine a better part of the US to take the last stretch of my trip on. Driving through the Rockies this morning was like being on an accelerated winter driving course. When I began the ascent, the temperature was hovering around 38 degrees, and within a half an hour, it had dropped to -3. Ice covered the winding, undulating, mountain traverses. The Blizzack tires I had installed in Kansas City were impeccable. The amount of grip they demanded in snowy Kansas (allowing me to drive a treacherous fifty miles past big rig accidents, stalled cars, and ditches that seemed to be teeming with fresh four-wheeled iron), worked just as well over the icy roads in Colorado. If I had somehow made it through Kansas with my old tires, I simply would have found myself huddled in my mummy bag, in the back of my car, waiting for a brave tow truck driver to rescue me out of the Rockies.

The strange scenes I passed today are too many to list (or perhaps I am too tired to try), but one really stands out. Around the time the temperature bottomed out, I came upon a small factory, nestled in a tiny town. Out of it's four smokestacks came steam. The steam welled up to create a tiny cloud, that sat completely motionless above the building, leading me to believe that this was probably a cloud factory (picture below).

I will not write about my day tomorrow, as it is a route that I have taken many times, and as anyone who has driven up I-5 from LA can attest, it is the sheer lack of anything remotely interesting that makes the drive so mind-numbing. The amount of caffeine I have to drink to stay awake usually leaves me in a jittery stupor anyways, and I am certain my resulting ramblings would have ended up making sense to me, and me only.

So I leave with this….

I think every good adventure leaves you with more questions than answers. For me, I found that the pursuit of the questions, rather than the answers, is in fact the pursuit of happiness. Renewed hope and faith comes from the acceptance and the understanding that the world is so much bigger than you, and despite the handful of painful (and occasionally crushing) unforeseen events of the last couple of years, I no longer feel hopeless, but instead, for the first time I feel truly blessed. I am thankful for my wonderful family, especially Katy (who supported my 'man mission'), and Tinker and Pat, who made me feel right at home in Virginia. I am also thankful for my friends, and indebted to the ones that either took me in, or showed me around their local haunts (including the ones that offered, but I couldn't meet up with). Lastly, I am thankful for the strangers that showed me that good and kindness see no borders.

I'm here in Denver!

And I'm too tired to type!

Hmmmm....

There is snow everywhere, combined with strong winds. I have only traveled five miles. My dear wife guided me to a tire store that opens in half an hour. I have no choice but to put on snow tires. Bar none, this is the worst weather I have ever driven in, not due to the amount of snow, but rather the terrible condition of the roads. I know it is not just me. In those five miles, I passed at least a dozen cars and trucks that were either stuck on the shoulder, or hopelessly drifting between lanes trying to get traction. I had severe issues getting traction as well, but the AWD helped me enough to get to the tire store. Needless to say, I am looking forward to going home. Here is a picture of my car this morning. It has been beigneted by snow. The parking lot is what the roads look like.

More States...

As I sit here in my humble (read dilapidated) hotel room, nodding off to the lullaby of a colicky baby next door, and preparing to drive on frozen roads with 30-45 mph winds tomorrow, I reflect fondly on the wonder of the my trip through the south and up the east coast. I am reflecting on that specifically because my drive, even though I went through four states, felt like I ended up in Ohio again. The northern states are vast, and carry with them very similar terrain. I can't imagine what the settlers must have felt. Kindness extends across all of them, from gas station attendants to strangers at small roadside stores. There is no doubt that there they face similar if not, more acute, hardships as the west coast does, but I will say that from the people I have met, they have their priorities straight, and carry an air of content that I do not see at home.

I am off to Cheyenne tomorrow, instead of Denver, to avoid the higher mountain passes. I really want to see a moose. I don't mean a roadkill one like all the other animals I have seen. I mean a real, majestic, smelly, felty-eared moose. I will, however, settle for a bear.

Ohio

Well, no pictures today. I was chased by rain from 6:00 this morning in Hudson, all the way until I arrived in Ohio at 5:30 this afternoon. Because of this, I focused more on the road than the things that exist beyond it's borders, missing countless wonders that are only interesting to a visitor. Today was about getting miles put behind me more than sight seeing. When I got to the hotel this afternoon, I asked the clerk how much a room was, and it was then that I noticed that those were the first words I had spoken all day (although I may have whispered to a cat I woke up on the way out of Chris' this morning). As I sit, I can barely think, and am wholly content zoning out in front of a television.

On a side note, I have slept better on this trip than I had at home for as long as I can remember. I don't miss the restless nights when I was working. It seemed that every night I would wake up with my heart racing, worried that I had missed something earlier in the day.

So here are all the states I have visited so far. Assuming the weather holds out, I should be well on my way to 30. Tomorrow I am driving through Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and end up in Kansas. Like Pavlov's dog, I am salivating for caffeine just thinking about it.

1) California
2) Arizona
3) New Mexico
4) Texas
5) Oklahoma
6) Arkansas
7) Louisiana
8) Mississippi
9) Alabama
10) Florida
11) Georgia
12) South Carolina
13) North Carolina
14) Virginia
15) Maryland
16) Delaware
17) Pennsylvania
18) New York
19) Connecticut
20) Massachusetts
21) Vermont
22) Ohio

Heading West

Decided to start the day by driving North to Vermont to pick up maple syrup for Katy. The morning started off in an optimistic manner; a full tank, 32 oz of Redbull, and two packages of PB&J Keebler cracker sandwiches. I know that New England gets cold, but despite the just-above-freezing temperatures in New Haven, I opted to drive North. Slushy roads greeted me in Massachusetts, and before long I found myself standing in line at 'Price Chop' supermarket in southern Vermont, armed with all varieties of local maple syrups, doing my best impression of a tourist. A painful ten minutes later, I was off to impress the locals with my California rendition of winter driving. Two hours across snowy, icy interstate 9 served me a healthy dose of well earned humility. I somehow made my way to Hudson, and was greeted by Chris and his three goats. I didn't know that goats liked cars until I saw Chris spend ten agonizing minutes trying to get his bags out of the car, while three goats grappled with each other for 'shotgun' in his passenger seat. I too was greeted by goat hoofs in my hatchback while fetching my things. I miss goats, and forgot how extremely entertaining and intelligent they are, and was more than pleased to make their acquaintance.

The farm is more idyllic than I can describe, and carries with it a sense of primal innocence. On the property is a homemade teepee that is not only fully functional, but warm and inviting. Sending the goats to bed on their alfalfa mansion in the barn, we left for dinner.

Chris took me to a restaurant that I cannot remember the name of, so let us refer to at as 'Awesome O'tastyhans', being as it was not only a perfect blend of country meets city, but also a wonderful combination of 1950's diner, and east coast chic. It was warm, inviting, and had a menu of perfectly executed American staples.

Back on the farm, I enjoyed great conversation, a lap full of cats, and a sizzling Franklin stove. Chris has made something great for himself here, and is an inspiration for taking a different path, and following your heart. A great day indeed!

Virginia, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Nubbins of New York, and Connecticut

Rocky outcrops emerged between the trees in Pennsylvania, reminding me that I am getting closer to New England. The pines, which I had started to consider a driving companion gave way to unknown bare trees, whose branches resembled whisks that seemed to stir the dense fog above. Southern New York was like driving through Sleepy Hallow, and felt saturated with the makings of lore and legend.

New Haven, as picturesque as it is, is a reminder that nice towns charge hefty prices for rooms. Due to that, I find myself in a hotel in West Haven, overlooking the interstate and sharing a parking lot with a Walmart. No doubt a strong contrast to the stay with family and friends the last two nights.

Nevertheless, I am joyfully keeping myself entertained by making arts and crafts out of the hotel supplies, and the change from my pockets.

The Carolina's and Virginia

I left South Carolina this morning after being filled with toast and eggs by my gracious host. Bidding Katie and George farewell, I headed back out on the open road. The pines thickened, as North Carolina quickly came and went. Crossing into Virginia felt a bit like coming home. My grandmother's family has been here for generations, of which familial roots intertwine tightly with the history of the state it's self. Tinker and Pat welcomed me into their beautiful home, which sat nestled under a thin canopy of deciduous trees. Tinker took me out to see a local civil war museum, which had been painstakingly filled with artifacts by a family that saw the historical significance of the battle site remnants back in the sixties. While most farmers were plowing over the remains of old encampments, they were out there hauling back everything they could find. The displays hold some of the most complete and plentiful collections I have ever seen. Among the displays was a picture taken at Belle Plain of roughly 10,000 confederate prisoners. Tinker took me to visit the site as it looks today. You can see from the pictures how little the scenery has changed. This is not uncommon, and is one of the most haunting and beautiful aspects of Virginia.

I have only known Tinker and Pat for a short time, but they already feel like family. Connecting with my Virginia roots alone made this trip worthwhile, and I hope to return next summer, but for a couple weeks instead of a day.

Tomorrow I will be veering wildly across Maryland and Pennsylvania, shaving off the top of New Jersey, before finally careening into the middle of Connecticut. This is a deviation from my original itinerary and will set me back a day (I will update the itinerary on my blog tomorrow), but will also allow me to see two more states than I originally planned.

While this journey has been immensely rewarding and exciting, I am eagerly looking forward to reconnecting with friends and family at home. Absence is nothing less than bittersweet, and certainly makes the heart grow fonder.

Dad, I threw in this picture of a mechanical bear. It is Pat's and looks a lot like the one that you kept from your childhood.

Georgia

I enjoyed a beautiful drive through Georgia today. A series of winding rural highways took me through small towns, and unadulterated countryside. The journey was a mottled array of new and old. Small houses from the 1800's dotted the landscape, preserving the vestiges of a bygone era. Some might consider these an eyesore, a bleak reminder of the kindred cruelty of years past, but I view them as the skeletal remains of the valiant south. A footprint that lingers through the years, like the roots of the swamp cypress. I don't claim to be in support of what was made on the backs of fettered men, but rather the aspirations of the ambitious and the hopeful. These homes embody the blood and tears of men that hoped for more, but instead left a carcass, swiftly swallowed by the ravenous vines, and beaten by the harsh weather.

Katie A, a friend of Katy's (and consequently my own) greeted me in Columbia South Carolina. We enjoyed a couple bottles of my IPA, and met up with a large group of her undergrad friends at some local haunts. First, we visited the 'Flying Saucer' for a couple of drinks, then moved on to 'Five Guys' for some burgers, and wound up in a bar I can't recollect, that happened to serve beers for a dollar a piece. She has some of the sincerest and kindest friends I have ever met. Matt bought me a drink at the bar, and gave me the warmest southern welcome I have had to date. Annie from Minnesota entertained me with stories of her childhood road trips west, that never went further than Montana. Back at Katie's house I was greeted by George (her pug) who quickly challenged me to a tug of war with a stuffed hedgehog. I have been promised eggs and toast tomorrow, which is a welcome relief to hotel breakfasts. This part of the journey left me in awe of southern hospitality. I am anxiously looking forward to visiting family tomorrow. It will be nice to see a 'familiar' face on the opposite side of the country. Today, I feel blessed.

Alabama, Florida, and Georgia

I will be honest. It was really hard to leave New Orleans. I woke up this morning two hours later than I should have, and lay there soaking in the sounds of the city, imagining that this was my home, and I was getting ready to join the chatter outside. I could live here in a heartbeat. There is a warm and wholesome feel about the French Quarter that I will not soon forget.

The drive through Alabama felt like an extension of my previous day's drive through Louisiana, but heading into Florida, I was soon greeted by occasional Palm trees and bridges spanning small extensions of the Gulf. My plan was to stay in Tallahassee, but that was quickly derailed when I saw a sign for Seminole Lake. I left the highway, and the miles began to add up. Seminole Lake is beautiful, sitting on the border of Georgia and Florida. There were Blue Herons, and flocks of little black water birds everywhere. I hoped to spot a gator, but was met only with impostors in the form of logs and muddy outcrops. Instead of going back to highway 10, I called Katy and asked her if she could find an interesting place to stay in Georgia. While she was busy with the research, I decided to wander aimlessly around the town. I ended up at a park. My license plate piqued the interest of a gentleman sitting on a bench, reading a newspaper. He came up and introduced himself. As we were chatting, he mentioned that he had been out of work for two years. He looked off into the thick pines, paused, and said "I'm pretty much homeless now.....there just ain't no more work". I could see what he meant. The opportunities for work in the area don't seem to go beyond gas stations, the dam facility, and a factory miles off in the distance. Strange how a short conversation with a stranger can be humbling.

Katy soon called and pointed me towards Thomasville. Meandering down back roads and small highways, I was surprised at how well the scenery fit what I had imagined. Rustic old mansions, partially obscured by moss-drenched live oaks, separated by remnants of old cotton fields, and thick forest.

Nothing fancy tonight. A gourmet dinner presented by Whataburger, and guest accommodations provided ala Best Western. I have also included a picture of the Mississippi that I forgot to post yesterday. You will have to forgive me. It was 1 AM on my last post, of which I had to type with one eye closed to keep the text from spinning. I blame it on the beignets....

The rest of Arkansas, Mississippi, and Louisiana

I had such a great time today. Driving through the bayous and swamps of Mississippi, Arkansas and Louisiana was an experience that I would not want to have missed. Meryl was kind enough to take me around the French Quarter tonight. I enjoyed a rabbit Jambalaya at Coops (that is Meryl in the picture) that put my Jambalaya to shame. It had flavors that I can't even attempt to identify. Next we went to a bar next door, which was equipped with a cat that visited the patrons. At one point the owner put some of it's treats in a plastic cup. The cat ravenously plunged it's head into the cup and proceeded to tear through the bar with it stuck to it's face, spilling it's treats all over the floor. Next was Cafe Du Monde for fresh beignets and hot chocolate, followed by a quick tour of Jackson Square. I have also included pictures of this old hotel I am staying at, which really fits with the whole atmosphere here in New Orleans! Tallahassee, you have big shoes to fill tomorrow!

Last tidbits of Texas, Oklahoma, and Arkansas

Left Amarillo at 5:15 Central time this morning. I saw the moon rising over the horizon. It was a deep orange sliver that was magnified by its position in the sky. Oklahoma came up quickly, and the flat, dry landscape of Northern Texas quickly yielded to rolling hills, and hibernating trees. From Oklahoma to Arkansas, the beauty of the landscape was peppered with new kinds of road kill, the likes of which I have never seen before. There were two porcupines, some sort of hawk, and of all things...a beaver. I guess all of nature's creatures need to cross busy interstates. Really wish I had seen live specimens though! I did spot one of the healthiest looking coyotes I have ever seen, smartly darting across the highway, adorned with his magnificent winter coat. The dialects and thick accents of the Midwest have made me painfully aware of the 'flatness' I hear in my own voice. The people I talked to in Texas are some of the most friendly, polite, and accommodating people I have ever met. Oklahoma was on par, and Arkansas has, at the very least, a killer BBQ shack, that has some of the most flavorful, smokey, peppery ribs I have ever had. Staying by a lake tonight, and looking forward to shrimp creole and beignets tomorrow!

Oops!

Forgot about this one

New Mexico and Texas

New Mexico is beautiful. Got a chance to go and take pictures of some of the pueblos, which I was hoping I would be able to do. I was also surprised by the amount of snow in Grant. Snow and ice were layered on the road, and it was a white-knuckled drive for about an hour. Growing up in California, I am used to always seeing mountains. Texas is the first place I have been to where you can look all around you and see nothing but fields in any direction. I was so distracted that I took a wrong turn off the freeway, and had to drive through a grassy ditch just to get back on again (long story). Ended up here in Amarillo, and had an awesome dinner at Famous Dave's BBQ. I had ribs and a Shiner Boch. I love IPAs, but i think the Boch might make me a convert. I had to stop typing this half way through to clean BBQ sauce off my phone, so that should be a testament to the ribs. While I miss my friends and family, today proved to be a wonderful experience!

On to Texas

Left Flagstaff about an hour ago. 8 degrees in the car. By the way, memory foam pillows were not meant to be used below freezing. They turn into rocks. Ask me how I know lol. At a truck stop right now filling up. Here was the best I could do for a sunrise this morning.

Day 1 wrap up

I forgot how lonely driving through the desert can be. I stopped a couple times just to listen to the sounds. It is quiet, but it seems like there is a soft, rolling boil just below the earth. I forgot how big the ravens get out here. They perch on anything that rises above the tumbleweeds, like little sentry guards looking over the desert basin. One of them sat, cawing, on top of an old abandoned adobe. It looked like it was never even lived in, likely abandoned a hundred years ago. I imagine what it was like to live in that adobe on cold nights like this. It is supposed to get down to 9 degrees. I am looking forward to the warm mugginess of the south.

Made it to Arizona!